Saturday, 28 January 2012

Ingleside - A pattern of sorts

I've had a number of requests for a pattern for my Ingleside infinity scarf, which is pictured on my project pages on Ravelry. I keep promising folks that I'll dig out my notes and here they finally are.

Please note that these instructions come with the following health warning:
  • Knitting the scarf may make you want to poke yourself in the eye with a sharp stick. Clearly this fact requires contemplation given that you are likely to have two such implements close at hand.
The reason for this is that the scarf is constructed entirely of 'True Twisted Rib'. Quite simply, this means that all the knit stitches and all the purl stitches are worked through the back of the loop. Twisting all those stitches is somewhat time consuming (and as far as the purl stitches are concerned, a bit fiddly) but it creates an especially beautiful fabric that drapes just-so. It also lies perfectly flat.

Don't be tempted to subsitute ordinary rib or some other form of a twisted rib in here. You simply won't get the same effect. Believe me, I tried.

110 x 35cm/43 x 14in

400m/440yds of any 4ply/fingering weight yarn
In reality, you can use any length of yarn and simply make the scarf longer or shorter accordingly.

Getting an exact gauge is not crucial but will affect the finished size and amount of yarn used.
27sts and 25 rows = 10cm/4in in True Twisted rib on 4mm/US6 needles

4mm/US6 needles.

Stitch markers
Spare needle for 3-needle cast off

k - knit
ktbl - knit through back of loop
k2tog - knit next two stitches together
k2togtbl - knit next two stitches together through the back of loops
ptbl - purl through back of loop
rpt - repeat
RS - right side
sl - slip stitch purlwise with yarn in front
sts - stitches
WS - wrong side

The Sample Scarf:
The sample scarf was knit using 1 skein Posh Yarn Miranda 4ply (400m/440yds per 100g/3.5oz)
(Silk, Cashmere, Alpaca)

 So, without any further ado, the notes I promised you:

Provisionally cast on 93 stitches. I prefer to use the crochet cast on but you can use any technique.

Row 1 [RS]: sl1, *k1tbl, p1tbl, rpt from * to last 2 sts, k1tbl, k1
Row 2 [WS]: sl1, *p1tbl, k1tbl, rpt from * to last 2 sts, p1tbl, k1

Repeat rows 1-2 until your piece measures 110cm/43in or until you've almost run out of yarn.

Cast-off and Finishing 
Now, with RS facing, unravel your provisional cast on and place the stitches on a spare needle. Arrange your needles so that the one holding the stitches from the provisional cast on sits behind the one used for your main knitting.

Use a 3-needle cast off to join the two pieces.

I've set out below how I joined the two pieces, but ultimately you can do what you want here. You'll get a seam of sorts, but you shouldn't find that this detracts from the overall look of the piece.

Please note that in the instructions that follow, k2tog, k2togtbl and p2tog refer to stitches used to join together the stitch from your main knitting with the one from the provisional cast on. Throughout the cast off you will only ever work on 1 stitch from each needle.

Step 1: k2tog
Step 2: k2togtbl
Step 3: Two stitches on right needle. Pass the second stitch over the first stitch.
Step 4: p2tog
Step 5: Two stitches on right needle. Pass the second stitch over the first stitch.

Repeat steps 2-5 until two stitches remain on left needle(s). Work steps 2&3 once more and then complete the final step:
Final step1: k2tog.Two stitches on right needle. Pass the second stitch over the first stitch
Tie off last stitch. Cut yarn and weave in carefully through the fabric of the cowl.

Enjoy! It's well worth it.